Visiting Surgeon in the Middle East: Part 17

I met Wissam at my hotel and we went to a different downtown area that was recently refurbished. It was a central area that was targeted by the Israelis in the last “troubles.” They left a few buildings in ruins to serve as a reminder of what happened. What struck me as the greatest juxtaposition, however, was the church that was adjacent to the Grand Mosque. How was that still standing, I wondered.

We ate another delicious meal (did I mention how good the food is in Lebanon?) and went to a local pub for a beer. With exposed brick, metal buttresses, and art nouveau films projected onto a white washed wall, I could have been in LA or NYC. Since my car was coming at 4:30 am to take me to the airport, we ended the night early (midnight in Beirut is very early). Wissam and I said our goodbyes. I was a little sad to see him go as I became very fond of him very quickly. We knew we’d see each other again.

I awoke very early the next morning, packed my things, and met my car outside the lobby. We drove through the deserted streets to the airport, and I realized that, somewhere on this trip several days ago, I stopped worrying so much about my safety. I think it happened in Kuwait at lunch with Wissam and the Egyptian pharmacists, as that is where I started seeing my hosts as well-spoken, thoughtful, intelligent friends very separate from extremists that claim to act on their behalf. I look forward to meeting my friends again.

Visiting Surgeon in the Middle East: Part 16

The next day, Friday, I ended up with nothing scheduled. I had hummus and Greek yoghurt for breakfast and decided to explore Beirut. Wissam was working and had to be at the office, so I was alone. I didn’t want to miss an opportunity to see Beirut. This was the first Friday (the Muslim holy day) since the death of Osama bin Laden and I was a little nervous about being alone on the streets of such a wonderful but notorious city. Having lived in New York City, Boston, and Los Angeles, I feel like I can blend in with city folk pretty easily (just look mad and don’t make eye contact). But I decided to avoid the area around Martyrs Square and the main mosques just in case there were any demonstrations or ill will toward lone American tourists.

I had a wonderful, uneventful day exploring the downtown area. I wandered over to the Corniche and walked along the sea. From a promontory I could see for miles north and south. I wondered how people that I could probably see to the south (where Hezbollah is dominant) would accept me being there on this day. I just strolled, stopping for a coffee or snack whenever it felt right. I took a lot of pictures and sent them to my 12-year-old nephew, Matthew. He, at such an early age, has the same travel bug I have and I knew he would get a kick out of seeing Beirut through my lens.

Visiting Surgeon in the Middle East: Part 15

We drove back to the hotel and I rested. The team told me I’d need it because they were going to take me out for a night on the town, and it could be late. Having watched decades of American TV news, I was a little worried what a late night on the town in Beirut would be like. Wissam picked me up and we went for a coffee at a French bistro in an open-air mall in a hilly district overlooking the city. The stores were all French chains but the atmosphere was nice in that one had the feeling of being on the street. We sat for 30 minutes chatting about our children and the funny things they do. It was time to meet the crew.

We went downtown near the central Martyrs Square. Many small, crowded streets emanated from it. One, anchored by a very crowded French brasserie, held their many bars and nightclubs. It was hopping. We settled into a nightclub and got a table. There were a variety of bands on the schedule, ranging from Arab tribal music to a disco cover band. Whatever the music, the crowd drank and danced with a fervor that took me by surprise. It reminded me of the Israeli nightclubs in Los Angeles. I couldn’t help but to think how similar everyone is. Why couldn’t they see it? Or did they. I didn’t want to ask since I was not sure of the answer I would get. The crowd was full of Lebanese, Europeans, and at least 1 American. No one cared. They just wanted to have fun. It was a good, albeit late, night.